Oahu, Hawaii

The best money you will spend on Oahu is one rental car

A small flat island offshore from Kailua Beach, a state bird sanctuary, low and green against blue water

Most people see Oahu from Waikiki and go home thinking that was the island.

I understand why. The hotel is there, the beach is there, the sunset sail leaves from the sand out front. You can have a genuinely good week without ever getting in a car.

We got in a car. Here is what one day bought us.

The falls near the Dole Plantation

The falls on Oahu's north shore, water dropping into a pool ringed by green

We drove up to the falls on the north shore and did the plantation tour on the way.

The walk to the falls is paved the whole way, which matters more than it sounds like it does. You are not scrambling, you are not picking your way over roots, and you can swim at the bottom when you get there. It is the version of a Hawaiian waterfall you can do in the clothes you are already wearing.

The plantation itself is exactly what you think it is, and I would still do it again. Sometimes the tourist thing is the tourist thing because it is good.

Kayaking off Kailua

Then across to the windward side, where the crowds stop.

We kayaked out from Kailua Beach to Bird Island. It is a state sanctuary, so you keep to the edges, and you are paddling over water that is genuinely the color it looks like in other people's photographs. Then we carried on down the coast to another beach in the car.

A rocky bay on the windward side of Oahu, seen from the coast road

This is the part I would go back for. Not the beach in front of the hotel, the whole side of the island most people never drive to.

The long way back

We came back around Diamond Head rather than the direct way. It is the scenic route, it costs you a few extra minutes, and it is the right way to end a day like that.

The one thing worth paying for

One rental car for one day. That is the whole thing.

It is the best money you will spend on that island, and it is the line item people cut when they are trimming a trip, because a car for a week is expensive and a car for one day looks like an afterthought. Book the day. Skip something else.